Sugar & Spice
BY NINA MACLAUGHLIN
Sugar & Spice feels like a restaurant you might find on the moon in
a not-too-distant future, where spaceship trips for Thai food are not
unheard-of. A futuristic feel pervades the space. The tables sport
the only right angles; the walls, alternately tiled and painted the
color of lima beans, curve in a sine wave. The lighting that hangs
in the center of the room swoops and bends in a metallic
interplanetary design. Other lamps dangle like bulbous glowing moon
fruits over the booths. But purple and orange stained-glass panes
look out not to the blue earth below, but to Mass Ave, a few blocks
from the Porter Square T station.
The restaurant, which opened last month, has a lengthy menu broken
into categories like "Noodles, Fried Rice & Something Nice," "Popular
Native Thai Style Appetizers," "Escape from the Shore," and "Star
Choices." The aptly named summer roll ($4.95) features vegetables,
boiled shrimp, and seasoned tofu wrapped in a steamed rice sheet.
Think of a miniature burrito with a translucent shell, sans rice,
sans beans, crispy and light instead of squashy and bulky. The Sugar
& Spice shrimp ($10.95) has veggies and shrimp in a chili-lime sauce.
The green beans, peppers, carrots, zucchini, and onions all retain
their individual flavor and crispness in the spicy sauce. In the
classic pad Thai ($7.95), also available in spicier country-style or
crispy versions, all the ingredients — the stir-fried rice noodles,
shrimp, chicken, eggs, peanuts, bean sprouts, and generous amount of
scallions — are blended in perfect accord. And for something
traditionally Thai and especially exotic, try the somtum ($5.95), a
papaya salad with shredded green papaya, carrots, tomatoes, and
shrimp tossed with chili-lime sauce and crushed nuts. Sugar & Spice
brings Thailand, which seems about as far away as the moon, to
Sugar & Spice, located at 1933 Mass Ave, in Cambridge, is open
Sunday through Thursday, from 3 to 11 p.m., and Friday and Saturday,
until 11:30 p.m. Call (617) 868-4200.